Line-Numbers in WordPress 2.8’s Theme Editor?

UPDATE: After about four hours of hunting, I finally found a way to enable CodePress in WordPress! A plugin called Enable Codepress does just that! It only seems to work in FireFox, but it does work with WordPress 2.8.4

copy of a comment I left HERE, a tutorial having to do with adding line-numbers and syntax-highlighting to WordPress’ text-editor.

Wow. I am so frustrated. I have spent the last four hours trying to find a way for me to endow my clients, whom I have set up with WordPress, with the power of line numbers when editing CSS.

WordPress is nearly FTP-free, which is great for lay persons. I’ve had great results with teaching older people how to use FireBug to find and preview changes in their CSS by right-clicking on what they want to change and selecting “inspect element.” And it’s not too difficult for many of these folks to get into their Stylesheet in WP’s Theme Editor and find and change what they have tested in FireFox.

But would make the workflow a thousand times better would be a way to make the Textarea in the Theme Editor disply Line-Numbers. There are a handful of plugins that claim to do this, but none of them seem to work with WordPress 2.8.4 And in my hunt, I’ve found evidence that WP once had this feature briefly, but turned it off because it was too slow. I never noticed it and I’ve been using WP for years, and have always been up to date.

Now I find this blog post. Great. A hack to turn on the CodePress functionality in WordPress 2.8… The problem is I don’t understand how to do this!

Can’t you just make an installable Plugin? A plugin would be great because it would be nice to be able to turn the thing on and off, if it is indeed slow or buggy.

Or if some manual intervention with WP’s files is necessary, could you please-please-please explain which files you are editing in this tutorial? All of the examples show top line numbers (1, 2, 3). There’s no “this is what the whole thing should look like” …You don’t explain what file or files you are editing. This is so annoying because I’m not a programmer and this how-to assumes that we know certain things that I don’t know.

could brave these steps if I knew where to make them. I have been searching for this post for hours only to find that I’m not smart enough to understand the directions!!! Thanks for your consideration and for sharing information, even if I am ineligible for it.

M-Audio BX5 Problem, Capacitors, Buzz, No-Sound

Copy of a forum post I posted at M-Audio’s user Forum.

I love my BX5’s. One of them died. Here’s what’s going on. I would really appreciate any advice on further troubleshooting/diagnosis. 

  • One of my BX5’s stopped outputting sound. It may been have been sitting turned on a few days before I noticed that it wasn’t working.
  • Upon putting my ear to it, I realized that it was making a steady hum/buzz from both drivers. This was similar to a 60-cycle hum but a little raspy-er if that makes sense, and if I’m not out of my mind. Also it wasn’t a very loud hum. Only about as loud as you’d get from a bad cable or something.
  • I tested for a bad input connection and tried using XLR instead of the 1/4 inch input. The problem was clearly inside the unit.
  • I opened it up carefully, to see if there was anything obviously burnt or shorted or broken inside.
  • After finding nothing that was obvious to me, I googled around and found a few posts on the m-audio forum talking about problems caused by worn-out capacitors. See: and and many others.
  • One of my two main power-supply caps was indeed bloated. And I noticed some dark-brown crustiness on top of the other which I concluded might be leakage of “electrolyte,” whatever that is.
  • I de-soldered and removed the old caps and set out to find replacements.
  • I accidentally ordered 16V 6800mfd instead of 25V 6800mfd, which I didn’t notice until I had already soldered them in.
  • I tried them anyway because in theory, since all the caps are supposed to do is smooth the supply current, too-low of a voltage rating on the cap would just mean that the caps will wear out sooner. The constant hum/buzz was gone with the new caps in. Instead what I got was a pop a few seconds after the unit was powered on. The pop is new. My functioning unit does not pop.
  • I went and got the correct 25V 6800µF Capacitors and put them in but there was no change in the above behavior. Incidentally, I had to mount one on the bottom because the ones I got were more than twice as wide and a bit taller than the originals.
  • I’ve double and triple-checked the soldering. I even opened up my functioning BX5 to make sure that the caps are in the right polarity.
  • I tested for continuity between the capacitor leads and the destination/source on the printed circuit (for instance one path goes to what I believe is a Rectifier IC so I checked to makes sure that path was solid all the way from that component’s lead to the cap’s lead to rule out a bad solder joint… I did this for all the paths in the printed circuit)
  • I’ve quadruple-checked for any visible shorts.
  • I believe that my capacitor-replacement surgery was a success, so now I am beginning to doubt that bad caps were the real problem. It’s entirely possible that the buzz/hum I was hearing was there for some time since it wasn’t loud enough to hear until I put my ear right up to the unit. Maybe I have two problems, one of which I just fixed.
  • I can now hear some faint white noise and hum from both drivers. The original, louder buzz/hum sound is gone. Instead what I hear is about like what you’d expect from an audio amplifier, but that is not the case with the fully functional unit I have… The functioning unit is very clean. The volume knob makes no difference in the slight noise/hum. And it’s so faint that if I didn’t have the other unit to compare with, I would probably think what I’m hearing is the normal hum of the amp.
  • The only other sound I can get from the dead unit is when I change the “Low Cutoff” switch, I hear slight fuzzy, static-y sound during the switching, but none of the other switches make any noise.

What should I do next? Perhaps the real problem here is in the audio signal path? A pre-amp problem? How can I rule that out?